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According to CreatorIQ, the Hong Kong-listed French skincare company owns the three fastest-growing skincare brands in terms of earned media value – Sol de Janeiro, Erborian and L’Occitane en Provence – which experienced respective year-over-year EMV growth. of 144 percent, 156 percent and 628 percent.
L’Occitane-owned Elemis saw its metrics increase by 132%, earning it third place in terms of total EMV in the skincare category, up five places from 2022 .EMV growth for all four brands exceeds that of skin care. category as a whole, which increased by 45% during the first half of 2023 compared to the first half of 2022.
“What L’Occitane does well is give creators carte blanche to talk about their products and brand in a way that is unique to the creator’s voice and their audience as a whole; there’s a good degree of creator autonomy that comes into play,” said Alexander Rawitz, CreatorIQ’s director of content marketing, noting that the influencer marketing dynamic in L’Occitane International’s portfolio began in 2021 and has accelerated since.
EMV growth for brands has been largely driven by continued investments in creator retention and acquisition. Elemis, for example, maintains an annual retention rate of 141%, while simultaneously recruiting 4,220 new creators – who generated $44.3 million in EMV for the brand – over a 12-month period.
Power creators, or those with more than 1 million followers, were the most represented level of influencer in Erborian, Elemis and L’Occitane en Provence’s respective lists of EMV Top 10 Creators.
Olivia Yang (@olafflee on TikTok and Instagram) was the first EMV winner for L’Occitane en Provence and the second for Elemis. Others who overlapped for L’Occitane en Provence, Elemis and, in Leah’s case, Sol de Janeiro were Nathalie Paris (@nathalieparis), Emma Leah (@byemmaleah) and Lena Bagrowska (@lenkalul).
While TikTok overtakes Instagram in terms of EMV share growth across all four brands – this year TikTok generated 30% of their collective EMV share compared to just 16% in 2022 – Instagram still has 65% of their collective EMV share.
“Instagram continues to generate more EMV because it’s a slightly more well-known platform,” Rawitz said, noting that it’s not uncommon for short-form TikTok videos to be repurposed into Instagram Reels to power EMV on the platform. “Instagram provides a solid foundation; a sort of high floor and low ceiling for posts, where TikTok obviously offers huge viral potential – but less guarantee that the content will go viral in the first place.
Still, TikTok has already overtaken Instagram in terms of EMV share for many beauty brands and Rawitz doesn’t rule out the possibility of a similar imminent shift within L’Occitane International’s portfolio.
In total, Elemis collected $88.9 million in EMV from January to October; Sol de Janeiro generated $76.8 million EMV, making it the sixth largest skincare brand, up from 21st last year, while L’Occitane en Provence and Erborian raked in $45.8 million and $8.5 million EMV during the period.
L’Occitane International ranked 21st on Beauty Inc’s list of the Top 100 Beauty Manufacturers in 2022, posting revenue of $2.15 billion for the year, an increase of 17. 3% compared to the previous year. After experiencing strong sales growth in the first quarter of 2023, the brand reportedly briefly considered a $4.2 billion buyout deal in July, but revealed in September that talks to take the company private had ended.